After two days of 30km each and now a day of 26km...my little toe just wants to run home!!
We arrive in Carrion to find 3 monasteries...1st one´s bathrooms were disgusting, so we give it a skip...2nd one was full but they direct us to the 3rd!! How amazing...no bunkbeds, just single beds and hot showers!!! The best news on the Camino!! Really appreciating the small things in life!
The men and women sleep separately so I am hoping for a good night with less snoring! Women snore too...but not quite in the same tones as men!
Sunday, September 30, 2012
Day 13...29 September 2012
Our day started very wet! Full rain gear before we head out. We walk 10km and pass by the San Anton Hospital ruins. My soul aches for the sadness that lies within the ruins. An angel watches over this place...angels work overtime on the Camino.
I walk the next 10km on my own. It is exhilirating . I immediately meet up with Karl (German) and John (retired Navy American) I spend some special moments with them before I tackle a huge mountain. I conquer it on my own and feel a great sense of accomplishment! I enjoy the tranquility of being on my own.
The meseta is revealing its beauty. My breath is taken away!
I feel like my time for searching is running out...I think I need to stop searching and just be!
We find solace in an albergue in Boadillas behind a shady door! A hot shower and bed...more you can not ask for! Dinner is superb...lentil soup, meat stew with salad and NO chips!! This is the first main meal without chips!
I walk the next 10km on my own. It is exhilirating . I immediately meet up with Karl (German) and John (retired Navy American) I spend some special moments with them before I tackle a huge mountain. I conquer it on my own and feel a great sense of accomplishment! I enjoy the tranquility of being on my own.
The meseta is revealing its beauty. My breath is taken away!
I feel like my time for searching is running out...I think I need to stop searching and just be!
We find solace in an albergue in Boadillas behind a shady door! A hot shower and bed...more you can not ask for! Dinner is superb...lentil soup, meat stew with salad and NO chips!! This is the first main meal without chips!
Day 12...28 September 2012
Alice left today.
We left the city behind and entered the meseta...wasteland! The vastness of it creates an eeried wonder. The first 20kms went by very quickly...the next 7km were suitably tough and the last 3kms not pleasant in the rain!
The town of Hontannas is well camoflauged in the mountain.
Had to help an Irish guy...Damien...with his blisters...that were bleeding! His camino is over and my heart aches for him!
This wasteland facinates me and I even love the sunflowers that have died. They have an eerie beauty beyond their colour!
Stefan (French guy) found the Argentinian guy´s camera in the Church after he had lost it in the road! Faith in humanity is restored ever so slightly!
The Way is about peace...no need to talk all the time...not everyone understands that!
Sleep is futile on the camino...it is a luxury I look forward to.
We left the city behind and entered the meseta...wasteland! The vastness of it creates an eeried wonder. The first 20kms went by very quickly...the next 7km were suitably tough and the last 3kms not pleasant in the rain!
The town of Hontannas is well camoflauged in the mountain.
Had to help an Irish guy...Damien...with his blisters...that were bleeding! His camino is over and my heart aches for him!
This wasteland facinates me and I even love the sunflowers that have died. They have an eerie beauty beyond their colour!
Stefan (French guy) found the Argentinian guy´s camera in the Church after he had lost it in the road! Faith in humanity is restored ever so slightly!
The Way is about peace...no need to talk all the time...not everyone understands that!
Sleep is futile on the camino...it is a luxury I look forward to.
Day 11...27 September 2012
Beautiful sunrise this morning! No words to describe! So crisp and good to clear the mind of the fog!
Very, very thankful for the lack of wind even though the temperature is still very low.
Made it in good time to Burgos. Another 23km down. Burgos is the first city I can say is beautiful. The cathedral was built in the 13th century and is very impressive. It is a pity that the architectural ability has declined over the centuries. The craftmanship is incredible!
Enjoyed a churros with thick hot chocolate on the square. Thank goodness for cheap Chinese shops...bought a much needed beanie!
Very, very thankful for the lack of wind even though the temperature is still very low.
Made it in good time to Burgos. Another 23km down. Burgos is the first city I can say is beautiful. The cathedral was built in the 13th century and is very impressive. It is a pity that the architectural ability has declined over the centuries. The craftmanship is incredible!
Enjoyed a churros with thick hot chocolate on the square. Thank goodness for cheap Chinese shops...bought a much needed beanie!
Day 10...26 September 2012
The temperature has dropped to 7 degrees!! I am not equipped for this weather! The wind is howling and we decide to catch a bus most of the way and walk the last bit to a small little town of Ages. Spent most of the day indoors and it was freezing.
At least the albergue is super and has the best food! The host was incredibly amusing and took everyone´s minds off the following days walk in the icy winds. The hot chocolate did its trick too and warmed the soul!
Looking forward to the interesting walk tomorrow!
At least the albergue is super and has the best food! The host was incredibly amusing and took everyone´s minds off the following days walk in the icy winds. The hot chocolate did its trick too and warmed the soul!
Looking forward to the interesting walk tomorrow!
Day 9...25 September 2012
The winds of change are here! Walked to Belorado in icy gale force head on winds. Not what you would call pleasant!
Broke the monotomy of walking next to the highway for 5km by waving at the truck drivers! It is a big trucking route, so lotsa waving to be done!! Alice´s feet are too sore to walk so she went ahead on a bus and booked us into the most AMAZING room with only 3 beds for the same price as 50 beds!! So incredible to have our own space. It is an interesting town with houses cut directly into the mountain rock!
Played some cards with the local ladies...very interesting experience!
Broke the monotomy of walking next to the highway for 5km by waving at the truck drivers! It is a big trucking route, so lotsa waving to be done!! Alice´s feet are too sore to walk so she went ahead on a bus and booked us into the most AMAZING room with only 3 beds for the same price as 50 beds!! So incredible to have our own space. It is an interesting town with houses cut directly into the mountain rock!
Played some cards with the local ladies...very interesting experience!
Day 8...24 September 2012
Walked 21km to St Domingo. There is a father and son from Canada who keep overtaking us...the father is 69yrs old! Just amazing!
There are 2 gypsies whith a dog Chikita that pop up every now and then. Interesting to wonder about everyone´s lives outside of the Camino. On the Camino life is simple...walk, find a place to sleep, wash your body, wash your clothes, eat, sleep...repeat! No one cares how much you earn or what you do...we have the same purpose each day...keep on the road to Santiago!
Follow the signs...there are signs everywhere.
Alice brings much needed comic relief...even though she can barely walk with all her blisters! I need to find time to walk on my own...I feel so crowded and uneasy in the big cities...I find peace in the wilderness. It is comforting.
Even though my feet ache, the walking is rythmic and soothing...like the beating of a heart. A heart pumping blood over the land...enriching it with variety...replenishing it with strength. As we check into the monastery with the "donation" of 5€ I wonder what these skew floors and thick walls could tell us? In the silence I listen to the whispers of ancient past.
There are 2 gypsies whith a dog Chikita that pop up every now and then. Interesting to wonder about everyone´s lives outside of the Camino. On the Camino life is simple...walk, find a place to sleep, wash your body, wash your clothes, eat, sleep...repeat! No one cares how much you earn or what you do...we have the same purpose each day...keep on the road to Santiago!
Follow the signs...there are signs everywhere.
Alice brings much needed comic relief...even though she can barely walk with all her blisters! I need to find time to walk on my own...I feel so crowded and uneasy in the big cities...I find peace in the wilderness. It is comforting.
Even though my feet ache, the walking is rythmic and soothing...like the beating of a heart. A heart pumping blood over the land...enriching it with variety...replenishing it with strength. As we check into the monastery with the "donation" of 5€ I wonder what these skew floors and thick walls could tell us? In the silence I listen to the whispers of ancient past.
Day 7...23 September 2012
Decided to walk the full 30km to Najera. First 13km were fine and feet were feeling great!! The next 7km the feet were starting to ache. Pushed the last kms and really suffered!
Have checked into the municipal albergue, which is dodgy but a bed for our weary bodies!! Poor Alice has too many blisters! She was sorted out at the "blister bar" and had to pay in kisses!! This of course created much laughter from the crowd!!
Best spag bol tonight...only because we were super tired and cold!
Have checked into the municipal albergue, which is dodgy but a bed for our weary bodies!! Poor Alice has too many blisters! She was sorted out at the "blister bar" and had to pay in kisses!! This of course created much laughter from the crowd!!
Best spag bol tonight...only because we were super tired and cold!
Day 6...22 September 2012
Walked 13km to Los Arcos and caught the bus to Logrono to meet Alice! Very grateful for the rest as my feet are in dire need of it!
So wonderful to see Alice after 10 years! Still the same.
So wonderful to see Alice after 10 years! Still the same.
Day 5...21 September 2012
No sleep...the Church bells ring at quarter past, half past, quarter to...on the hour and 5min past...just in case you didn´t hear the on the hour ring!!!
Getting up earlier has its advantages...so peaceful. The sights and sounds are crisp and clear.
Another long and hot walk today. covered another 23km. All in all doing very well. My feet are bruised and very painful, but I will vasbyt! The highlight of the day was the wine coming out of the wall...this is not an illusion but true!! Pure bergie heaven!!
Mayor Monjardin is our destination tonight. We managed to get the last beds...well mattresses should I say...but it meant no snoring!! The Dutch owners are amazing and will be blessed for all the blessings that they give out!! And the meal included vegetables!!
May the road rise up to meet you
May the wind always be at your back
May the sun shine warmly on your face
Until we meet again may God hold you safely in His hands
Buen Camino!
Getting up earlier has its advantages...so peaceful. The sights and sounds are crisp and clear.
Another long and hot walk today. covered another 23km. All in all doing very well. My feet are bruised and very painful, but I will vasbyt! The highlight of the day was the wine coming out of the wall...this is not an illusion but true!! Pure bergie heaven!!
Mayor Monjardin is our destination tonight. We managed to get the last beds...well mattresses should I say...but it meant no snoring!! The Dutch owners are amazing and will be blessed for all the blessings that they give out!! And the meal included vegetables!!
May the road rise up to meet you
May the wind always be at your back
May the sun shine warmly on your face
Until we meet again may God hold you safely in His hands
Buen Camino!
Day 4... 20 September 2012
Breakfast this morning was fun with our dinner mates...amazing bond you form when you have the same purpose.
The walk today was somewhat trying. My patience is wearing thin. My skin is reacting badly to the heat and my feet swell like melons...soon soon I need to get used to this...will I ever??
My shopping excursion in Pamplona was fruitless...so await my towel from Alice!
Thought we would stop after 18kms as it has been a tough hot day on the legs and the feet are not co-operating. Alas, the guy who owns the albergue seems to be a drunk and fallen down 2 days ago and hasn´t opened the albergue since. So a lot of time was wasted waiting around trying to find out where to stay. A short trip to the next town was our place of refuge...3km is a very long way in this heat!
Dinner was super! Spinach soup was the best ever and the first vegetables that we have had! The hostess was a hoot! Am super tired as the guy who slept on the bottom bunk was very restless and kept me awake...and guess who is on my bottom bunk again tonight...VOILA...I kid you not!
The walk today was somewhat trying. My patience is wearing thin. My skin is reacting badly to the heat and my feet swell like melons...soon soon I need to get used to this...will I ever??
My shopping excursion in Pamplona was fruitless...so await my towel from Alice!
Thought we would stop after 18kms as it has been a tough hot day on the legs and the feet are not co-operating. Alas, the guy who owns the albergue seems to be a drunk and fallen down 2 days ago and hasn´t opened the albergue since. So a lot of time was wasted waiting around trying to find out where to stay. A short trip to the next town was our place of refuge...3km is a very long way in this heat!
Dinner was super! Spinach soup was the best ever and the first vegetables that we have had! The hostess was a hoot! Am super tired as the guy who slept on the bottom bunk was very restless and kept me awake...and guess who is on my bottom bunk again tonight...VOILA...I kid you not!
Day 3...19 September 2012
Larrasona was our starting point...glad to leave this town...felt somewhat ripped off!
Short 20km hop to Pamplona. Strangers in a strange land...big city life is somewhat overwhelming when you have been in the rural areas for a few days!
At least the fruit is a lot cheaper in the city! The apples were only R2.50 each and not R10 like yesterday!! Feet are aching but are taped, which gives support to the arches. Got my first blister...just a teeny tiny one...so had it sorted in a shot! Had such blessed moment when a downsy came up to me in the busy streets and said "Ola"...so I greeted him back and he said "Buen Camino" and gave me a big grin!!
Pushed through Pamplona and Cizur Menor to Zariquigui!! What a trek...but so worth it! Dinner tonight was the epitomy of the Camino! Lithuania, Germany, France, Norway and SA all around the table chatting and laughing and enjoying a good meal together! So worth the pain getting here! Love, love, love it!!
Short 20km hop to Pamplona. Strangers in a strange land...big city life is somewhat overwhelming when you have been in the rural areas for a few days!
At least the fruit is a lot cheaper in the city! The apples were only R2.50 each and not R10 like yesterday!! Feet are aching but are taped, which gives support to the arches. Got my first blister...just a teeny tiny one...so had it sorted in a shot! Had such blessed moment when a downsy came up to me in the busy streets and said "Ola"...so I greeted him back and he said "Buen Camino" and gave me a big grin!!
Pushed through Pamplona and Cizur Menor to Zariquigui!! What a trek...but so worth it! Dinner tonight was the epitomy of the Camino! Lithuania, Germany, France, Norway and SA all around the table chatting and laughing and enjoying a good meal together! So worth the pain getting here! Love, love, love it!!
Day 2...18 September 2012
Slept in the most amazing monastery in Roncevalles. So beautiful and clean and we each had our own cubicle.
Woken up at 06:00 by a chant...mainly to get up and outta there...but also to bless our journey to Santiago! (as you can see my Spanish is fantastic...on word of Santiago and I know they are blessing our journey...what else could they be saying at 6 in the morning!!)
To say this stage is gruelling is an understatement. I suppose with the after effects of yesterdays climb to the top of highest mountain in the ENTIRE world...it is to be expected that the feet might be in somewhat shock! Honestly...take yourself back to the time where your feet have been the most sore EVER and multiply that by at least 53! I am most grateful for the zero blisters, but there might well be blisters...I just think my feet do not exist anymore!! Is it possible to still have feet if you can´t feel them?
Today´s walk was through the forest and there was a lot of forest to get through...but in 30 degrees, the shelter was a welcom relief! The forest brought back many childhoos memories of visiting my grandparents in Magoesbaskloof...there were even brambles to feast on!! Pop has been with me most of the past 2 day and it is great to spend time with him.
We decide to push through to Lasarrona...to make up some time...or confirm that we are in fact crazy! We missed the last bed a the municipal albergue (hostel) so had to pay an exhorbitant amount for bunkbeds! The pilgrims meal was very expensive but at least delicious! Just not 100% sure about the tuna in the green salad??? Delicious beef stew and rice pudding...never to replace Mom´s of course!
I walk mostly behind...to be with my own thoughts...which are mostly of everyone back home right now.
Early start tomorrow...a bit of shopping for a new towel...I somehow managed to leave mine in Roncevalles! I seem to be very forgetful on this trip...is the ouderdom? Lets pray to be able to get up tomorrow and complete our journey!
Woken up at 06:00 by a chant...mainly to get up and outta there...but also to bless our journey to Santiago! (as you can see my Spanish is fantastic...on word of Santiago and I know they are blessing our journey...what else could they be saying at 6 in the morning!!)
To say this stage is gruelling is an understatement. I suppose with the after effects of yesterdays climb to the top of highest mountain in the ENTIRE world...it is to be expected that the feet might be in somewhat shock! Honestly...take yourself back to the time where your feet have been the most sore EVER and multiply that by at least 53! I am most grateful for the zero blisters, but there might well be blisters...I just think my feet do not exist anymore!! Is it possible to still have feet if you can´t feel them?
Today´s walk was through the forest and there was a lot of forest to get through...but in 30 degrees, the shelter was a welcom relief! The forest brought back many childhoos memories of visiting my grandparents in Magoesbaskloof...there were even brambles to feast on!! Pop has been with me most of the past 2 day and it is great to spend time with him.
We decide to push through to Lasarrona...to make up some time...or confirm that we are in fact crazy! We missed the last bed a the municipal albergue (hostel) so had to pay an exhorbitant amount for bunkbeds! The pilgrims meal was very expensive but at least delicious! Just not 100% sure about the tuna in the green salad??? Delicious beef stew and rice pudding...never to replace Mom´s of course!
I walk mostly behind...to be with my own thoughts...which are mostly of everyone back home right now.
Early start tomorrow...a bit of shopping for a new towel...I somehow managed to leave mine in Roncevalles! I seem to be very forgetful on this trip...is the ouderdom? Lets pray to be able to get up tomorrow and complete our journey!
Day 1...17 September 2012
Very glad to leave SJPP...too comercialised for my liking!
So...it was me, my backpack vs the Pyrenees!!! As much as I would like to say I owned the Pyrenees...it was pretty much the other way around! A 7hr walk turned into a gruelling 10hrs...but I am titanium!!
The spectacularness (yes, that is a real word) of the sights that lay before me, kept me going! The breath taking views left me speechless and got me through the next steep climb...and boy there were many! And of course there was the egg man at the top of one particularly steep climb...what a welcome relief...boiled egg for 50c...and other refreshments to vitalise your body!
No blisters to report on but very sore and tired feet and a buggered shoulder!! But such satisfaction and great sense of accomplishment I look forward to tomorrow´s challenge!
So...it was me, my backpack vs the Pyrenees!!! As much as I would like to say I owned the Pyrenees...it was pretty much the other way around! A 7hr walk turned into a gruelling 10hrs...but I am titanium!!
The spectacularness (yes, that is a real word) of the sights that lay before me, kept me going! The breath taking views left me speechless and got me through the next steep climb...and boy there were many! And of course there was the egg man at the top of one particularly steep climb...what a welcome relief...boiled egg for 50c...and other refreshments to vitalise your body!
No blisters to report on but very sore and tired feet and a buggered shoulder!! But such satisfaction and great sense of accomplishment I look forward to tomorrow´s challenge!
Finally the blog can emerge
Ok, so I know most of you have given up on me seeing as I haven´t posted anything for 2 weeks...but quite honestly...that first week I couldn´t walk to the nearest internet cafe and that second week...well...it was quite nice not to be behind a computer at all...so apologies for the wait, but I will try and keep it quite chronological and post each day separately!
Just to keep everyone on the right page, we landed in Madrid on the Saturday, 15 September 2012 expecting to catch a train to Pamplona and a bus to St Jean Pied du Port (SJPP) on the same day...but as we have learnt, the Spanish are not always so accurate with times, distances and signs...so we missed the last train to Pamplona and had to spend a night in Madrid and catch the 1st train out the next morning!
But as they say...on the Camino everything happens as it should!
And we were meant to be on the square drinking a ¨Garre¨of Sangria and listening to the live band play so beautifully!
So we managed to make the train to Pamplona...have a super breakfast of coffee and chocolate croissant at the change over station...and managed to leave my envelope of clothes I was going to post to myself on the previous train...so kind person who finds my jeans and clean undies...please pay it forward and put a stamp on my parcel for me to receive in Santiago when I complete my journey!
So our walk started on Monday morning very early after a night in SJPP. The hostel where we stayed was ok, but the lady who ran it was quite something! Not the most pleasant French woman I have ever encountered! It was a place to lay our heads...and enjoy one...not two cups of coffee in the morning!
Just to keep everyone on the right page, we landed in Madrid on the Saturday, 15 September 2012 expecting to catch a train to Pamplona and a bus to St Jean Pied du Port (SJPP) on the same day...but as we have learnt, the Spanish are not always so accurate with times, distances and signs...so we missed the last train to Pamplona and had to spend a night in Madrid and catch the 1st train out the next morning!
But as they say...on the Camino everything happens as it should!
And we were meant to be on the square drinking a ¨Garre¨of Sangria and listening to the live band play so beautifully!
So we managed to make the train to Pamplona...have a super breakfast of coffee and chocolate croissant at the change over station...and managed to leave my envelope of clothes I was going to post to myself on the previous train...so kind person who finds my jeans and clean undies...please pay it forward and put a stamp on my parcel for me to receive in Santiago when I complete my journey!
So our walk started on Monday morning very early after a night in SJPP. The hostel where we stayed was ok, but the lady who ran it was quite something! Not the most pleasant French woman I have ever encountered! It was a place to lay our heads...and enjoy one...not two cups of coffee in the morning!
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